Inspiration can come from anywhere, and for Jonathan Simkhai, it came from a picture of his mother on her wedding day. For his Spring-Summer 2025 collection, he reimagined the seventies-era silk petals of her vintage bridal gown as three-dimensional florals that were appliquéd on delicate column dresses. Lace-pattern detailing showed up on separates, and infusions of white, beige and butter yellow provided the palette for what the Los Angeles–based designer called his “most personal” runway show to date.
“I wanted to celebrate women with this collection, and I hope everyone who buys a piece from this line will feel that,” says Simkhai, whose designs incorporated textiles created in his late grandfather’s lace mill in Iran, as well as hand-crocheted knits, laser-cut leather and fin-pleated poplin. “I am always thinking about the woman who will wear the pieces and how she will look and feel in them,” he says.
Photography by Davit Giorgadze for Simkhai
This May, Simkhai will have the chance to meet the women in Minnesota who wear — and love — his feminine-meets-masculine womenswear dressing in person. The designer, who, after working as a buyer and merchandiser, founded his line in 2010 and went on to win the prestigious CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2015, is coming to MartinPatrick 3 for his very first trunk show at the legendary boutique. “We are so excited to visit the store this spring and meet and interact with the women who shop here,” says Simkhai. “It’s been exciting to see the demand for the pieces we offer right off the bat,” he says.
Womenswear is still a relatively new category for MartinPatrick 3, which has long been known for its high-end menswear and home goods offerings. During the pandemic, in the fall of 2020, MP3 decided to expand into women’s fashion with a curated collection of luxury womenswear that matched the elevated tastes of its clientele. “Simkhai blends a contemporary and classic aesthetic,” says Director of Women’s Buying Samantha Tousey, who brought the brand into the store in 2023. It’s clean-lined, elevated and sophisticated but with a touch of fun.”
The trunk show, which will give MartinPatrick 3 shoppers access to exclusive runway pieces and a chance to meet the designer in person, will also provide a first look at his Spring-Summer 2025 collection. Tousey says she’s excited about the pinstriped vests (“very Annie Hall”), cream or summer white options, and denim in sharp silhouettes, as well as the collection’s long shorts — a fresh option for spring that has a bit of a retro feel — and the always popular bustiers. “Our clients are very worldly, and they travel a lot,” says Tousey, who likes how these pieces can travel well through different climates and be dressed up or down. “I love mixing masculine and feminine together, as well as layering different fabrics and cuts. Vests are a great way to wear tailoring and feel very modern again,” says Simkhai of his wardrobe staples.
The designer, who now makes everything from accessories to swimwear and menswear (new this year), made his name first by crafting eye-catching, elegant party dresses. His brand’s DNA is still one of its greatest strengths, and Tousey anticipates MartinPatrick 3’s clients — who are looking for pieces that bring them “joy and happiness” — will be interested in Simkhai’s more whimsical pieces, such as a tea-length spaghetti strap gingham dress.
“I do think the midwestern shopper loves a sense of occasion, whether it’s an engagement, a best friend’s wedding, a milestone birthday or a charity dinner. I love the stylish yet practical sense of style, and I can’t wait to see the brand being worn by all the women in the area,” says Simkhai, who says he focuses on craftsmanship versus capturing a current fad. “I like to be sculptural and relatively minimalistic, but I don’t think too much about trends when designing. It’s more about the wearer and how to make her look and feel good season after season,” he says.
The mega versatility of Simkhai’s timeless pieces — like a sculptural bustier, which the designer loves to see styled over a crisp white shirt and paired with trousers for day but can also be matched with a mini, midi or maxi skirt for night — is one reason why his collections have had such broad appeal. Celebrities ranging from Michelle Obama to Taylor Swift and Gigi Hadid have been spotted in his dresses and everyday separates. MartinPatrick 3’s Tousey notes that while the store’s core demographic is 35 to 60, she also sees college-age women making a bee line for Simkhai. “We see daughters shopping with their mothers,” says Tousey. “It’s generational.”
