Photography provided by Sotheby’s

Her love of jewelry was legendary. Rogers collected bespoke bijoux from the most renowned houses, and she even designed her own pieces, creating necklaces with bold, gutsy combinations. When she moved to Taos, New Mexico, in the 1940s, she fell deeply in love with Native American jewelry, collecting some 1,000 pieces in her lifetime. Famously, she would pile her wrists with elaborate stacks of these silver and turquoise bracelets, creating highly curated looks that were entirely her own. “Millicent Rogers was the very definition of style transcending fashion and trends,” Everett asserts.

Over the years, most of her jewelry has been dispersed. But in December 2024, Sotheby’s in New York City pulled off a rare feat, selling two of Rogers’ personal pieces in its Magnificent Jewels auction — giving style lovers a rare glimpse into one of history’s greatest and most original jewelry collections.

Consigned directly from the Rogers family, up for sale was an exquisite pair of circa-1939 ear clips by French designer Suzanne Belperron, who was known for her pared-down aesthetic. The two ear clips feature delightfully opposing designs: one set with a pear-shaped ruby, accented by cabochon sapphires; the other set with a pear-shaped sapphire accented by cabochon rubies.

But the showstopper was a dazzling circa-1937 floral clip–brooch by René Boivin, a French jeweler popular during the art deco era. Fashioned in the form of two roses, one flower is set with old European and single-cut diamonds; the other features calibré-cut rubies. This lushly crafted, three-dimensional design is characteristic of Maison Boivin, which often drew inspiration from natural forms. “She was a patron of the finest European jewelers, particularly the house of Boivin — which at the time was entirely female, a fact that certainly did not escape her notice,” Everett points out.

Bijoux devotees from more than 35 countries took part in the glittery auction, hoping to own one of these special lots. Hundreds registered for the live sale which saw brisk bidding in the room, on the telephone, online and by absentee buyers. Amid strong interest, the two Rogers pieces exceeded expectations, soaring well above their early estimates. The ruby and sapphire ear clips realized $50,400, smashing the pre-sale predictions. And the coveted floral brooch from Boivin took in a staggering $456,000, three times higher than expected.

And so, a fresh chapter begins with the sale of these storied jewels, signaling a continued demand for pieces from the great style icons of the 20th century. For the new owners, these rare treasures offer a chance to buy into the enduring legacy of Millicent Rogers — one of America’s most original and captivating tastemakers. “Her love of different cultures and their traditional dress inspired her to make daring and unconventional fashion choices far ahead of her time,” Everett sums up. “Nearly 75 years after her passing, she continues to inspire the worlds of fashion, art and design.”

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Photography by Brian Ferry

Precisely why last fall, Christie’s in New York City devoted an entire sale to Lalanne’s works, creating a global event where some 70 pieces were on offer, all culled from the personal collection of the sculptor’s daughter Dorothée Lalanne. The idea was to build on the massive appeal of Lalanne’s creations, which, for decades, have been beloved by art connoisseurs and famed fashion designers alike.

“A pivotal moment in their market trajectory came in 2009 when Christie’s auctioned the personal collection of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé, setting a record at the time with a total of €373.9 million,” says Christie’s Senior Vice President, Head of Design, Americas Daphné Riou. “This historic sale cemented the artist’s market presence, and demand has only surged since.”

Photo Courtesy Jean-Philippe Lalanne © Archive Dorothée Lalanne_ Les Lalanne © 2024 Artist Rights Society (ARS)

To celebrate this Lalanne love, Christie’s sought out French fashion designer Simon Porte Jacquemus to create a six-day immersive display for these tortoises, bears and owls — all set into a series of galleries at Christie’s in New York City. Here, a wheat field formed the backdrop for deer, which served as benches, and turtles turned into topiaries. Nearby, a worn wooden farm table provided a note of organic texture for “Âne de Nathalie,” an iconic donkey sculpture whose side opens into a desk.

Photography by Brian Ferry

“François-Xavier worked in a way that appeared casual but was, in fact, very rigorous, thoughtful and elegant,” Dorothée Lalanne told Christie’s in a presale statement, adding: “It seemed very natural that Simon Porte Jacquemus would create the exhibition for this auction; his work is so playful, so full of light and joy and as unexpected as François-Xavier’s work.”

All this presale pizazz paid off as the landmark auction took in nearly $59 million — more than doubling the high estimates. The live sale went on for four hours as savvy bidders competed on the phone, online and in person — all from the storied Rockefeller Center salesroom. Four pieces set world records, while every single sculpture up for sale found a buyer.

Photography provided by Christie’s

The star lot was the massive “Très Grand Centaure,” which Christie’s deftly displayed at the entryway to the auction. It went for $7.5 million amid fierce back-and-forth bidding, more than nine times its low estimate. Towering up 11 feet tall, the stately sculpture became the auction’s elegant showstopper.

Photography by Brian Ferry

“One of my favorite pieces from the sale is ‘Très Grand Ours,’ a sleek, upright bear with a nearly human posture. It sold for $6.1 million, doubling its high estimate and setting a new record for the model,” Riou points out. “Another remarkable lot is ‘Chouette de Jardin,’ which was a delightful discovery. As Madame Lalanne recounted, it had been forgotten in the artist’s garden at Ury and only rediscovered when it was brought out for cleaning — her first time seeing it.”

Photography by Brian Ferry

Indeed, from tiny birds to life-sized sheep, these endearing sculptures have found new homes across the globe — where they will no doubt continue to enchant. “There’s this archetypal quality of humor, menace and fantasy that is highly reflective of antiquity,” Alex Heminway, Christie’s international head of design, sums up. “The excitement in the build-up to the sale was mirrored by our clients’ enthusiasm, and the results were everything we hoped for and more.”

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Photography by James Jackman for Art Basel

Leading the creative charge for 2024 is the fair’s new director, Bridget Finn, who brings a deep knowledge of the art world after working in New York City galleries and co-owning the Detroit gallery Reyes | Finn. “Miami Beach is like no other place in the world,” Finn tells us exclusively, “The city is the meeting place of North and South America, with its tangible Latin and Caribbean influences.”

Artwork by Pedro Mana for Carmo Johnson

Art Basel’s spectacle grows every year, but this season, there is an emphasis on smaller galleries. That’s because they are offering petite-sized booths — all geared towards modest-sized galleries. Some 34 first-time artists are participating, the most significant number of newcomers since 2008. “We created the linear sliding scale system to ensure a more level playing field for galleries across all market segments. Our decision is grounded in the belief that small and mid-sized galleries play an essential role in a healthy art ecosystem,” Finn explains.

Artwork by Andile Dyalvane

Building on last year’s success, the fair will be a visual beehive for art aficionados poised to discover their newest favorite artist, from large-scale immersive pieces to innovative installations. On tap, Carmo Johnson Projects out of Brazil will show works by the artist collective MAHKU. These colorful, kaleidoscopic paintings depict indigenous chants from the Huni Kuin people living in the Amazon region of Western Brazil. Meanwhile, Gordon Robichaux Gallery in New York City will show mixed media and photo works by the late Agosto Machado, a Chinese-Spanish-Filipino visual and performing artist and activist.

“The show is, more than any other event in the world, a cultural conduit for not just art but design, fashion, music and film,” Finn points out. “It’s such a spirited, dynamic and fast-evolving event where every corner of the city is brimming with art.”

Artwork by Pierre Bonnefille

Be sure to pop into Design Miami, which offers collectible designs from the 20th and 21st centuries — think Art Basel for home decor. Peruse their streamlined setting, where you’ll find curated vignettes of furniture, lighting and accessories. This year, look for Pierre Bonnefille’s bronze “Banc Rhizome” from Les Ateliers Courbet in New York City, colorful ceramic works by “clay healer” Andile Dyalvane for Southern Guild and sculpture from designers Éric de Dormael and Agnès Baillon for Galerie Negropontes out of Paris.

Artwork by Eric de Dormael and Agnes Baillon

Finally, after breezing through the tents, don a fun party frock for some special openings in Miami’s many museums, galleries and private collections. Marvel at the art deco architecture, then book a table near the beach. And if you are lucky enough to find yourself at one of the many VIP parties, take it all in — this is Miami Beach with all its sizzle, the very nexus of art and culture in the Americas.

Art Basel Miami Beach December 6–8, 2024

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Case in point: On June 27, fashion lovers from around the world descended on the venerable Hôtel Drouot on the Rive Droite in Paris. The occasion? Maurice Auction was holding a swoon-worthy sale in the middle of fashion week. Produced in collaboration with Kerry Taylor Auctions in London, the highly anticipated sale included a treasure trove of covetable items culled from the private closets of some of the globe’s top fashion collectors, including Chanel couture dresses, Yves Saint Laurent coats and Hermès crocodile bags. Roughly 1,000 people registered to bid in person, online or on the phone. They saved the star lot for last: an iconic Galliano gown that sold for €19,500, close to early estimates.

It was purchased over the phone by an important international collector, not to be worn but to be exhibited someday.

Photography by George Mavrikos

Welcome to the rarified world of elite fashion auctions. Sotheby’s in London turned heads in September 2023 with their inaugural Fashion Icons sale. Here, Princess Diana’s ‘sheep’ sweater by Warm & Wonderful sold for a record $1.1 million. Following that success, a second Fashion Icons sale is slated for 2024 with haute couture pieces by Christian Dior and Elsa Schiaparelli. Not to be outdone, Christie’s in Paris scored a coup in January 2023 by offering a once-in-a-lifetime sale with the private collection of legendary French vintage fashion dealer Didier Ludot. That same month, they also held a global auction entitled “The V.W.S. Collection – From Beijing to Versailles,” in which a staggering 115 haute couture pieces went up for sale. Then, in June 2024, Christie’s auctioned off the private collection of British fashion designer Vivienne Westwood — taking in £754,000 and selling out every single lot.

“Fashion is becoming a genuine field of collection with very wealthy clients buying to collect, possibly resell one day, and wear,” explains Salomé Pirson, co-founder of Maurice Auction in Paris, one of the go-to houses for vintage style lovers. “Auctions have become more accessible and frequent, with a broader range of items on offer, from classic couture gowns to rare vintage accessories.”

Pirson and Marie-Laurence Tixier started Maurice Auction in 2022 after both women left their jobs at larger auction houses. They could see burgeoning interest in the category and wanted to cater to these savvy clients. According to Pirson, social media has helped feed the trend, as have live auctions. Now, with the push of a button, buyers can bid online worldwide. “Haute couture has the advantage of being rare. If an owner has carefully preserved a haute couture garment, it can resell very well,” Pirson points out. “This audience can include institutions and luxury fashion houses that repurchase vintage pieces for heritage purposes.”

Perhaps even more interesting than the buyers of these extraordinary pieces are the sellers. After all, what motivates a collector to buy an expensive designer dress, wear it only once, hold onto it for 24 years and then finally decide to sell it at auction? In an exclusive interview with Artful Living, the seller of the Galliano gown, who prefers to remain anonymous, explains why she wore it only once. “I couldn’t recreate the happiness I experienced that day, so I wanted to leave it intact.” At one point, in the nearly two-and-a half decades she held onto the dress, she harbored the hope of bequeathing the prized possession to a daughter or granddaughter. But she eventually realized the time had come to part with the dress. “[In the end], I don’t have a daughter or a granddaughter — I have a son who is still unmarried!” And while she admits it was a difficult decision to sell it, she believes “this unique piece deserves to live again under the lights.”

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Photography provided by Christie’s

Singer Elton John has always been an obsessive collector of everything from sleek Bentleys to Versace shirts. So when the superstar decided to sell 900 pieces from his former Atlanta home, Christie’s in New York City held a February auction extravaganza, offering glitzy preview nights and eight separate auctions, both live and online. Bidders from 60 countries snapped up art, fine jewelry, even custom-made platform boots in the star-studded sales, which brought in $20.5 million, more than double the early estimates.

Amid all the hoopla, there was one category of items that quietly captured the attention of astute buyers around the globe: photography. Somewhere along the line, Elton John has become a connoisseur — so much so that he has assembled one of the world’s largest private collections, totaling some 7,000 images. “When Elton John bought his Atlanta residence in the 1990s, it was a period of much change and transition for him,” Elizabeth Seigel, head of Christie’s Private and Iconic Collections, New York, exclusively tells us. “He had just gotten sober and seeing the world through clean-and-sober eyes gave him new perspectives on ways of approaching and seeing different mediums and art forms.”

The famed Rocketman certainly knows a thing or two about being in front of the camera, given his stratospheric rise to stardom. But over time, that awareness morphed into a passion for photography as an art form. Soon he was purchasing an average of 1.5 pieces a week. “He began buying from various Atlanta-based dealers and galleries, then threw himself into the scholarship and understanding of the category,” Seigel explains. “He read, studied and bought voraciously, ultimately building his reputation as an important collector.”

For this sale, 350 photographs were up for auction, all plucked from the dazzling gallery walls the musician had set up in his Atlanta residence. There he displayed hundreds of images at a time, featuring artists who pushed both technical and creative boundaries. But always grounding his collection: the singer’s appreciation for iconic fashion photography. “One prime example of that,” says Seigel, “is John’s print of Avedon’s ‘Dovima with Elephants,’ 1955, which is a rarely seen alternative image from the famous photo shoot that produced what is perhaps Avedon’s most celebrated image.” She adds, “John’s is the original engraver’s print photograph used for reproduction in the Harper’s Bazaar issue where the images first appeared.” Amid brisk bidding, the image sold for $151,200.

Fashion aside, the EGOT recipient is just as drawn to the dynamism of photographers from the 1980s, like Robert Mapplethorpe, whose “Calla Lily,” 1988, sold for $157,500, almost three times the low estimate. History most definitely plays a part in John’s inventory of photography, with several museum-quality works from social documentarians like Dorothea Lange, Diane Arbus and Garry Winogrand. Rounding things out were pieces by famed artists like the technically brilliant and temporal works of Japanese photographer Hiroshi Sugimoto, whose arresting image “Polar Bear,” 1976, sold for $69,300, four times more than anticipated.

Elton John’s once-in-a-lifetime photographic collection brilliantly captures the medium’s greatest hits. Which is why this spring, more than 300 of his images will be unveiled at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, where Fragile Beauty will make history as the institution’s largest photography exhibition to date. Proving once again that this savvy collector with the exacting eye knows how to hit the high notes.

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“Portrait of Buster, Shandy, and Bluett” by Frances Mabel Hollams | Photography provided by Bonhams

“We love dogs, and it is this basic love that spawned an entire genre of art,” says Bonhams Edinburgh Picture Specialist Leo Webster. “Whether working, shooting or simply pets, there is such a broad range of reasons for keeping dogs, and therefore celebrating them in art.”

Although the live auction took place in Edinburgh, Scotland, impassioned admirers from multiple countries, including the United States and the United Kingdom, placed bids online and by phone for a rousing sale that smashed early estimates, bringing in £430,739.

“Meurice of Mannerhead – A Very Fine Poodle” by Frederick Thomas Daws

Who could resist a posh poodle with the striped bow and red embellishments on its paws? “Meurice of Mannerhead – A Very Fine Poodle,” the lush 20th century painting of an aristocratic-looking animal posed against a lavish yellow drape by British artist Frederick Thomas Daws, sold for £9,600.

An especially mischievous pooch seemed to steal everyone’s heart: a wide-eyed black pup intently holding a tennis racket in its mouth. The 1898 portrait “Sidi – A Poodle with a Tennis Racket” was painted by German artist Paul Friedrich Meyerheim, who beautifully captured the beloved pet’s playful spirit. After fierce bidding, the artwork sold for £51,200.

“A French Bulldog” by Maud Earl

Among the auction’s most elegant pieces was a portrait of a poised French bulldog, created circa 1900 by British artist Maud Earl. One of the few female sporting painters of that era, she was known for her highly detailed renderings of purebred pooches. In this work, the proud Frenchie is captured with soft brush strokes, evoking a cool sophistication. No surprise, it garnered great interest from breed lovers near and far, bringing in £14,080.

“As with most areas of collecting, there is a whole host of different buyers,” Webster explains. “Some buyers wish to celebrate all dogs, and some only want to collect items related to ‘their’ breed. Some are looking for one special artwork, while others are wishing to fill their entire home.”

Collectors with more modest budgets were also thrown a bone, as the sale offered some fetching bargains. An impressive 20th century walking stick with a carved wooden finial in the shape of a spaniel head sold for £358. Meanwhile, a 19th century brooch featuring a rough collie set in a rock crystal reverse intaglio imbued with a delicate seed-pearl border brought in £640. A patinated bronze greyhound letter clip went for £538, his spring-hinged jaw ready to hold handwritten keepsakes.

But surely, the item that garnered the most attention was the large-scale 1896 sporting canvas entitled “The New Forest Buckhounds.” Painted by the incomparable British artist John Emms, the work shows a group of hounds seated in the forest, accompanied by a huntsman and kennel assistants. Emms specialized in painting hounds in the Hampshire area; here, he used dynamic, precise brush strokes to capture the dogs’ spirit and energy. Amid strong demand from sporting lovers the world over, the artwork sold for £82,950 — a grand gesture of puppy love, indeed.

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Photography provided by Christie’s

It’s known as le goût Rothschild (the Rothschild taste) — an exceedingly extravagant style of interior design with damask-draped walls, gilded ceilings and old master paintings aplenty. A private museum of sorts. So influential was this 19th century European look that elite American families like the Astors and Vanderbilts clamored to replicate it in their gilded-age mansions.

“The Rothschild taste involves the massing of works of art in a domestic interior,” Christie’s Americas Deputy Chairman Jonathan Rendell tells us. “The objects serve a dual purpose: to demonstrate an educational level and a taste of the highest order. In addition, the ‘living museum’ serves to slightly intimidate guests.”

Indeed, a tinge of intimidation was in the auction room in New York City when Christie’s recently sold a once-in-a-lifetime assortment of Rothschild treasures. A modern-day branch of the family in France decided to part with some coveted possessions that had been installed at the Château de Ferrières outside Paris and the Rothschild townhouse on Rue Saint-Florentin in the heart of the city.

Well-heeled bidders packed into the sales suite, deftly competing with global collectors online and on the phone for three live auctions that set records. Combined with a separate online sale, Christie’s took in more than $62 million with bidders hailing from some 40 nations — elite numbers for an elite auction.

Of course, these were not run-of-the mill objects on the block but rather museum-quality pieces, with many dating back to the Renaissance and Baroque periods — golden ages for collecting. That’s why Christie’s packed up the top lots and sent them on a worldwide tour. Elaborate viewing vignettes were set up in London, Hong Kong and New York City, all to tempt the world’s most astute connoisseurs.

One of the most coveted treasures was a Dutch silver-gilt mounted Nautilus cup circa 1607, an aesthetic marvel with its stylized monster’s head unfurling across the top. In brisk bidding, it sold for $1.5 million, more than 10 times the early estimate. Christie’s revealed after the sale that the stellar piece had been purchased by the Cleveland Museum of Art. “The nautilus shell cup is fascinating in that it is a natural wonder brought halfway around the world on spice trading ships as well as for its extraordinary mannerist mount — a real wunderkammer object,” Rendell explains.

Design devotees were smitten with the exceptional furniture on offer, including a 17th century Italian ormolu-mounted pietra dura and ebony cabinet-on-stand, a tour de force in this art of “painting in stones.” Here, intricate inlaid panels showcased fully sculpted mosaics of fruit and flowers. Built to impress, the piece brought in $856,000. “The rich decoration combined with exotic woods exudes sophistication,” Rendell effuses.

Meanwhile, an Italian maiolica charger circa 1541 delighted with its astonishingly lifelike depiction of the storming of La Goletta, a seemingly impregnable fortress in Tunisia. Showing soldiers on ladders and climbing towers, this exquisitely detailed work went for $819,000, twice its estimate. “The charger really does give you history on a plate — a general, an emperor and a sultan all rolled up together,” Rendell extols.

Finally, one of the smallest objects in the sale garnered some of the greatest attention: a first century AD Roman cameo portrait of Emperor Claudius. Sculpted in sardonyx with an earthy glow, it features rich layers of orange, brown and white. Capturing the attention of determined bidders from around the world, the cameo brought in $2.1 million, seven times the early estimate. It serves as resounding proof that the discernment of le goût Rothschild continues to dazzle even today.

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Photography by Spacecrafting

Kate Nordstrum and Jovan C. Speller Rebollar

The Great Northern

“The Great Northern was born of place and is the embodiment of real, distinct Twin Cities values,” says Kate Nordstrum, chief programming officer of the one-of-a-kind festival she oversees alongside Executive Director Jovan C. Speller Rebollar. Now in its fourth year, the ambitious undertaking encapsulates 10 days of programming with two calls to action: to address climate change and to embrace winter together. The goal, Speller Rebollar says, is to “inspire action and protect our signature season. We’re changing hearts and minds about our cold climate.”

She would know. After living in Los Angeles, Speller Rebollar landed here with a plan to hibernate all winter long. But upon invitation, she participated in the event as an artist herself, with a work that was in part a reaction to George Floyd’s murder in 2020. Now, she’s helping lead the festivities, which include thought-provoking climate solutions panels with global experts; gourmet dinners discussing the future of food; arts performances and exhibitions; a new signature family event, Midwinter Melt at Silverwood Park; and the popular Sauna Village, where folks can gather and enjoy the thrilling, healing contrast of steamy sessions and icy air.

Nordstrum says this combination of crucial, complex topics and inspiring art helps everyone process their thoughts and feelings together at a time when we might otherwise be inclined to isolate. “Taken together, we’re asking the question: What do we stand to lose as our winters continue to warm?” she punctuates. “We connect climate to culture in a way that I hope deeply resonates, where people enter into a space of love and joy and appreciation. We’re extending an invitation for anyone to join us in fighting for our winters. It’s wonderful to have a bright light in the middle of the season and be in community.”

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“Anne had flair, a creative orientation that flourished in her work as a designer and an artist,” her sister Susan explains. “She was drawn not to Washington, D.C., like the rest of us; she was a New Yorker through and through.”

Photography by Adriana Echavarria Eisenhower

It turns out she had quite a flair for jewelry as well. After Eisenhower’s unexpected passing in 2022 at the age of 73, Christie’s recently sold off her exceptional collection of baubles, taking in a staggering $11.5 million. Bijoux lovers from across the globe took part online, on the phone and in the auction room, where 31 pieces from this spectacular assortment went up for sale.

This was a collector’s collection to be sure. Eisenhower had a knack for knowing what to buy and when. The most coveted gems were of course featured, including diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires, along with important historic and contemporary pieces. “Anne had the wherewithal to acquire incredible pieces of jewelry that once you’ve seen them, you never forget them,” notes Christie’s Jewelry Senior Advisor Lisa Hubbard, who had a longtime friendship with Eisenhower.

Photography provided by Christie’s

The star of the show was a jaw-dropping diamond and ruby Van Cleef & Arpels bracelet known as the Jarretière. Actress Marlene Dietrich bought the bauble in 1937 and wore it in Alfred Hitchcock’s 1950 film Stage Fright, then a year later at the Academy Awards. Eisenhower purchased the bracelet directly from Dietrich’s estate in 1992 then asked Van Cleef & Arpels to craft a complementing necklace and pair of earrings.

In spirited bidding from enchanted buyers around the world, the Jarretière bracelet sold for $4.5 million, capturing the high end of its early estimate. The earrings far exceeded estimates, bringing in $176,400, while the matching ruby Cascade necklace went for $1.1 million. In the end, this stellar jewelry suite represented not only exceptional value but also exquisite refinement.

Of course, good taste is what Eisenhower was known for. In the late 1970s, after working alongside design legend Dorothy Draper, she started her own interiors firm. In 1990, she was named one of Architectural Digest’s top 100 designers thanks to her traditional, uncluttered residential spaces that had a lived-in charm. “She was the sort of person who, when she walked into a room you noticed her — not because she was over-the-top, but because she sailed in and was simply an elegant presence,” Hubbard recalls.

Photography by Klaus Lucka

The jewelry she collected carried that same élan. Her beloved Van Cleef & Arpels sapphire and diamond Waterfall necklace stunned with its geometric brilliance, selling for $819,000. Meanwhile, her Tiffany & Co. art deco diamond and multi-gem Moonlight Rose bracelet, unique for its scroll-like design, brought in $604,800 — a showstopper for sure.

Although Eisenhower is celebrated for her exceptional style, she is equally known for her quiet generosity supporting causes like the Breast Cancer Research Foundation and the Metropolitan Museum of Art. As her granddaughter Camila Mendoza explains, “While these jewels are indeed breathtaking, my grandmother is the real gem we are celebrating.”

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